If you live by the Weather Channel like I do, you know what’s been going on here in the Midwest.  

Yeah, we got a little rain...

 It’s been raining like Noah was coming back for an encore.   With the rains come other problems, from which even yours truly is not exempt.   Our sump pump stopped working & our basement was flooded w/18″ of water.   In about 3 hours, while we were asleep.   New freezer, full of meat, flipped over in the water. 

Nice freezer, huh? Lost about 1/2 a steer before we got the water out.

  You’ve never seen such a well fed dog & so many happy barn cats!   Made the last payment on our new HVAC on the 1st of July.   Post flood – toast.   It was fixable, thank God!   Washer, dryer, 300 golf balls, paint, etc. all soaked.   So what do you do in this situation?

Start w/making sure outlets & electrical devices have not electrified the water.   How do you do that?   Well, you can do what I did.   I told my wife to stick her finger in it…just kidding!   If you’ve got lights, first visually check to see if anything is running or sparking.   Next, wearing well insulated rubber boots, get as close to the water as possible w/out touching it & check it w/a multi-meter or other current monitoring device.   If it is safe, wade into the water & shut off any potentially harmful devices such as the water heater, to prevent possible electrocution while working, as the water may continue to rise.   Non-essential devices such as air purifiers, radios, etc. should also be unplugged for the same reason.

Next, get yourself as many pumps as you can to get the water out as quickly as you can.   We used 3, and it still took the better part of a day.   A word of caution – be careful not to pump out the water so fast your basement wall caves in! This is a very real possibility if you’re using a high capacity trash pump, such as your city uses to pump out overflowing storm sewers.   Don’t forget you have water pressure from the outside pushing in, plus the weight of the soil.   So try to let things equalize, or you may be in for a very nasty, expensive surprise.

Once you’ve got all the water out, you need to get everything either removed or dried out.   Fans are great.   Opening windows is essential – unless, of course, it is still raining or flooding.   Remove any saturated papers, boxes, clothing, wood, etc. & either dispose of them or dry them out in the garage or some other shelter.   Don’t forget to spread these items out & turn them over.   It doesn’t take mold very long to get a foothold in these situations.

OK.   Now for the hard part.   If you’ve got carpeting, get the water out of it IMMEDIATELY.   Use a high powered wet-vac & some fans.   If you’ve got saturated drywall, you probably won’t be able to save it.   It’s just easier to take a drywall knife & cut it off.   Cut it at least 12″ above the highest watermark.   If you use a straightedge & can cut it at 24″ above the floor, it will be much easier to replace.   Drywall comes in 4′ x 8′ sheets, so splitting one in half provides you w/two 2′ x 8′ replacement sheets.   Much easier to tape & mud it that way, too. 

Look carefully & you can tell where the wall studs are.

A little tip. When you’re nailing it back up, try to keep it about 1/2″ to 1″ above the basement floor.   Then, if you get a little water in the future, you won’t have to worry about it wicking its way up your walls again.

While you’ve got your walls open, you need to closely inspect the walls studs, floor plates & any other structural surfaces for moisture &/or mold.   You can do this visually & by using your hands to check for moisture.   You may also want to spend $30 or so to buy a moisture meter.   They are available from Lowe’s, Menard’s  & Home Depot, as well as some local hardware stores.   They are simple to operate & will provide an idea of the moisture in the wood.  The ones we use start @ $ 200 & go up from there.   If you can’t find what you’re looking for, try www.aramsco.com.  They’re expensive, but they sell the highest quality merchandise & can get it to you overnight. 

If you have moisture but no mold, dry it out thoroughly before doing anything else.   Wooden surfaces should be @ 10% or less moisture, unless they are treated (greenboard) expressly for mold resistance.   Drywall should be no more than 14%.   If you do have mold, or suspect a potential for mold growth, clean the surfaces thoroughly w/a fungicide.  Concrobium is a good one, and is readily available at Home Depot.   It runs about $35/gallon.   (Now do you have an idea why it costs so much to have us pros come in & do this kind of work?)   Microban, Foster’s 80-40 & products by other commercial use manufacturers are available through Aramsco.   I do NOT recommend cleaning up w/a bleach solution, or anything containing bleach, such as Mold Armor’s Instant Mold & Mildew Stain Remover.   It’s OK for bathtubs & toilets, but NOT for wood, drywall, etc.    If you really want to go cutting edge, try nzymsys’s Oceanic Mold & Bacteria cleaner, available @ www.nzymsys.com.    This is fairly new on the market & does a pretty decent job of killing everything microbial, w/out killing you.   It’s not cheap, but it’s worth the money.   DampRid also has some fine products for cleaning & disinecting against mold. 

MA's Blocker = Good, MA's Stain Remover & Cleaner = No Recommended for wood

 So your wall stud surfaces are clean.   Now what?   If it were me & I was being paid for the job, I would spray everything w/another layer of disinfectant & let that dry.   Then, and ONLY then, I would encapsulate all cellulose surfaces.   Ironically, I kind of like Mold Armor’s Mold Blocker.   It uses a pretty effective ammonium chloride compound to create an invisible barrier to mold growth.   But, on wall studs & floor plates, I absolutely prefer Foster’s 80-20 encapsulant thinned w/Concrobium or Microban.   It’s white, heavy & contains a plasticizing agent.   So you can not only see where you’ve sprayed or brushed it, you can actually feel the plastic surface when it dries.   You know you’ve put a real barrier between mold spores & their food source.   Plus, it smells a little like vanilla ice cream.   You can also use Kilz in a pinch, but lace it w/Concrobium & apply 2 coats to insure a good barrier.

When you put your basement back together, don’t forget the dehumidifier.   Make sure all of you gutters drain at least 6′ away from the house.   Make sure they don’t overflow because they’re full of leaves.   That water could potentially get behind your siding & cause real trouble!   Make sure your sump pump works properly.   And, most important of all, get an Ace-in-Hole backup!!   I wouldn’t have had all this trouble & expense if I had had one.  

If you need professional services, go to www.indevcon.com.   Thanks & keep your boats afloat in Ma Nature’s latest mess!

Yesterday, I submitted a nice, thick, Phase I ESA report to a client we have been serving for some time.   The first comment was, “Very impressive!”, which, given my ego, was very satisfying.   However, it wasn’t too long before I realized that the sheer volume of the thing was proving daunting to our client.   Which means she was not getting what she needed out of it.     

  Most such reports contain masses of data that has been sifted through by the environmental professional, who has distilled & condensed the essential facts for use by the reader.   So, how do you, the non-professional, best absorb the information contained in an environmental report?

  First, there is usually a page called “Executive Summary”.  This is generally one or two pages at the front of the report that presents the pertinent facts in an encapsulated form.   Read this first, after speaking w/your environmental specialist, who should walk you through the report before you read a single word on your own.   This page will let you know if you have anything to worry about, what it is, and where you should go next to read up on any potential or actual concerns.

After reading the Executive Summary, you’ll want to look at the pictures.  For a Phase I ESA, there are two kinds of photographs, aerial & site photos.  Aerial photographs these days usually include a satellite image, as well as historical aerials, to provide a site setting.   Site photographs are just what they sound like, pictures of the property.   But look both types of photos over so that you can get an idea of what your environmental professional saw & what he/she is referring to in the report.   Not all types of reports include aerials, as they are not essential for say, a mold report on your home.  You know where that is located in the neighborhood, so you don’t need to document its physiographic setting.   But you definitely want to look over the photo log so that you can be conversant & ask pertinent questions about the work that was done.   It’s like looking through the report preparer’s own eyes.

OK, so now you have an informational background & a visual image in your mind as to the concerns addressed in that fancy, impressive report.   What next?   If there are test results, laboratory analytical reports, etc. contained in an appendix, that’s your next stop.   First, scan the data to familiarize yourself w/what is being referenced & reported on, and how it is presented.   “Sample #CD-1 was obtained from the ceiling of the kitchen & was positive for asbestos”.   This statement may not appear in a laboratory report, but the data in it was used to create the statement somewhere in the report, either in sentence or table form.  

Now you have the following information firmly set in your mind:

1.   An idea of what, if any, concerns exist at the site for which the report was prepared.

2.   An image in your mind as to where certain events took place, or where certain conditions or materials exist at the subject location.

3.   Any pertinent data generated by any testing that was performed.

  Now you can read through the report w/out any trepidation.   Relevant information is usually contained in 20 pages or less, and is usually double spaced to boot!   That’s not too tough, once you know what to look for in such reports.   The rest is usually appendices containing copies of the raw data used by the environmental professional to create the report & draw certain conclusions or provide particular recommendations.

So next time your environmental professional hands you an intimidating looking report, just remember that he/she has already gone through the information for you.   Most of the data contained therein has simply been provided to you for reference.   Read your Executive Summary.   Maybe nothing of concern was found.   Then, take a look at the pictures.   This is like looking at the site through your professional’s eyes.   A picture is worth a thousand words.   Lab reports, field tests, tables, charts & graphs all provide data that may be of interest.  

  Most important of all, ask questions!!   I cannot emphasize this enough.   If you have questions, right away or later on, you should be able to ask your environmental service provider for answers.   That’s what you pay us for – to provide information about & solutions to your environmental problems & concerns.   Good luck & happy reading!

   As always, if you have any questions concerning this article, or any environmental questions in general, please contact us through this site.

(Requested by my little cousin Maria, a real sweetheart living in Missouri.) 
Many of us have old paint, paint stripper, used motor oil, etc. in our homes and garages that we don’t know how to get rid of.   We don’t want to toss it in the trash, because, as we all know, landfills leak.   (Yes, no matter what your local waste management/governmental agency tells you, they leak.  They ALL leak.)   You don’t want to flush them down the toilet or dump them in the sewers, because we’ve all read that old urban legend where the guy gets blown off his toilet smoking a cigarette – or maybe you really ARE  just environmentally conscious.   For whatever reason, you are looking for the proper means of disposing of your household hazwastes.
So let’s take a look at some options.   First, as we all know, there are periodic hazardous waste collection drives at your local farm bureau, municipality, etc.   That’s the best place to get rid of this kind of stuff, because they have to do it right or they will incur big fines.   Plus, these events are generally government sponsored.   The biggest drawback is that these collections are periodic & may not be convenient.
Second, you can call your local waste collection facility & see what options they have available.   Most can point you in the right direction, although for seriously hazardous waste, say dry cleaning fluid (a.k.a. “perc”) that you found in the basement of your new home, you will have to pay for collection & disposal.    Stuff like that is just not safe to carry around in your mini-van.
Third, you can often dispose of flammable materials through a local utility or alternative fuel burning facility.   A lot of the car dealerships that offer vehicle service around here also employ muliti-fuel furnaces to heat their shops.   It saves on waste oil disposal fees, and provides basically cost free heat to their shop.   Used motor oil, transmission fluid, some solvents, etc. can be safely burned for heat or fuel at such facilities.   WalMart also provides free waste oil collection & disposal in many areas.   So, for the price of a phone call or some internet time, you may be able to find out where to get rid of that old oil, etc.   Obviously, you’ll want to be as open & honest about the contents of your flammable waste with the folks who intend to use this material.   If you tell them the stuff is only used motor oil & it contains gasoline, you could get somebody hurt.   It they survive the explosion, it might be YOU!
Another means of disposal is using the material for an alternate application. Maria has some old, ugly paint that she can’t see putting on her walls.   OK, how about using it as primer?   Tan paint is light in color & may help cover a darker paint in the kids bedroom before you apply Barney Purple.   It is also perfectly acceptable to add sand or some other inert material, such as Oil-Dri or cat litter, both of which are highly absorbant clays (recommended over sand) & then dispose of the solids.   Let it dry first.   This method is used by a lot of landfills.  

You might also consider donating old paint to homeless shelters, churches or half-way houses.   These folks are often strapped for cash & are happy to accept some paint for their facilities.   You can also mix paints to creat fun new colors, or let your kids use them for their art.   A word of caution.   Be sure you know the contents of old paint!    Do NOT let kids use lead (Pb) based paint.   Do NOT mix latex & oil based paints.   Basically, just use your head.
As to paint strippers, solvents, etc.   Do you have a wood pile, brush pile, etc. that needs burning?   You can usually use these materials as a fire starting accelerant.   Yes, I know, some people are going to say that this is environmentally unconsionable.   Well, that is simply not true.   Using hydrocarbon (HC) based materials – commonly gasoline or charcoal starter – to start a fire serves 2 purposes.   First, you get your fire started.   Second, as the volatiles are consumed, the fire gets hotter, making it possible for the flames to consume the heavier HC chains & larger molecules.   There are usually few, if any, residuals.   Refineries use old or mixed solvents as feedstock to fire their fractionating towers & other units.   So, while there may be some HC residuals (what do you think you car’s exhaust produces?), the by products of combustion are largely CO, CO2 & water vapor.   Ask your local chemistry teacher.   Seriously.

Once again, you should know the contents of your accelerant before using it.   That old bottle of PCB containing transformer oil is NOT suitable for use on fires!   Nor is the plastic or styrene containing solvent.   As Grandma used to say, “Use your noggin”.   If it’s safe to use in the home, it’s probably safe to use outside of the home.   If the material in question warns that it should only be used or applied by professionals, you need to seek a different means of disposal.
Another word of caution – based on personal experience.   Please remember that some HC vapors are heavier than air.   Gasoline, for instance. This means that the vapors can travel along the ground surface without dissipating into the air too much.   On my 23rd birthday (many years ago), I poured gasoline onto a brush pile & then went into house to get some matches. When I got back outside, I struck a match, intending to toss it from a distance into the gas soaked brush.   The resulting WHOOSH!! BA-BOOM! not only scared the bejeezuz out of me, but singed my leg, chest & belly hair & greatly reduced the volume of my moustache.   Moreover, the resultant birthday pictures – sans eyebrows – made for great family fun for several months.   I never forgot that lesson.    And, boy, am I glad I was wearing shorts.   Otherwise, something else might’ve been singed!
So, be careful.   Also, don’t pour any flammables on the ground.   A lot of it, including gasoline & paint strippers, contains benzene, a known carcinogen. (If you want some fun reading some time, look up past uses of benzene, a well known cancer causing agent.   It was used for everything from aspirin production to decaffienating coffee.)   Soil particles & interstitial spaces can absorb hydrocarbons & preserve them there for a long time.
OK, last but certainly not least.   If you have household chemicals for which you can find no alternative use, cannot safely dilute for disposal, & cannot wait for the annual city collection date, what do you do with them?   Well, the federal government requires that generators of hazardous waste register with them &  follow certain protocols for waste disposal.   So look on the label, find out who the manufacturer is & give them a call.   Ask them how to dispose of these materials.   If they refuse to provide you any information, look up the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for the item in question on line.   If that does not provide any information, go to EPA.gov & see what you can find out there (either about the product or the company who makes it).   There is a wealth of helpful information on line.
One final word of warning.   If you have something that you suspect is hazardous but you cannot identify it, call a professional.   Many old homes may have arsenic, other poisons, highly unstable, explosive or caustic/acid liquids & other potential hazards to human health and the environment in them from a time gone by.   Our fathers used to operate on the “out of sight, out of mind” principal.   That is simply NOT acceptable in this day & age, when we know so much more about the effects of contaminants in our daily environment.   So be smart, be careful, be creative & be healthy!   Remember, we are only using this planet temporarily, until our children take over.

There are many things to consider when dealing with environmental issues. One of the most important, especially if someone has impacted the environment in which you live, is the legal aspect. Whether you have been wronged or are accused of an environmental violation, it is imperative that you be provided with sound legal advice.
   I have a friend in the environmental business who is being sued for 5 million dollars, yes, that’s $ 5,000,000.00! And all this for a $ 2,000.00 project. It’s incredible what your exposure is in this business. His firm’s lawyers actually laughed when he asked them what it would cost him to defend the case. Their reply was, “it’ll be expensive, ***, really expensive.”
   So. You have an environmental problem. Maybe your landlord refuses to pay for mold clean up from that leaky overhead pipe? Maybe your neighbor’s old underground storage tank has leaked & impacted your country well? Our advice is to seek legal counsel sooner rather than later.                                                                                                                                                         

What kind of lawyer do we recommend? Quite simply, one who protects his client & is skilled at both negotiation & resolution. After all, it is usually more prudent & cost effective to get the problem solved than to spend a lot of time & money in court.

If you are seeking legal help here in northern Illinois, where we work, we recommend you visit  www.brucebrennanlaw.com.
We have been associated with this law firm for approximately 19 years.  During that time, we have both utilized the services of  the principal on several projects, as well as assisted his firm on a number of cases.   He has successfully defended numerous clients and limited the future environmental exposure of quite a few during the sale of their property.
   If you have questions about your own environmental exposure, please visit his website & leave a message. If you do not live or work in northern Illinois, Indiana or southern Wisconsin, he may still be able to refer you to an appropriate attorney in your own area.
   In any case, if you have legal issues associated with environmental considerations, get a lawyer. We recommend one that knows the issues & who will work towards resolving them, rather than an “ambulance chaser” or someone who is more interested in billable hours than a satisfactory conclusion to your problem. Good luck!

I am currently working with a client on an issue that concerns possible industrial pollution in her home.  The odd thing is that she lives in a rural area, and the suspected polluter is located several miles away.  The suspected pollution vector?  Interconnected storm sewer lines!  Interesting how this comes about.  An uninformed employee washes or otherwise releases a toxic chemical into a floor drain, and presto!  You have a pathway for a pollutant to travel that may affect every structure along the drainage path.

 Not all folks will be cognizent of pollutants, as most are not as hypersensitive as our client.  Nevertheless, just because you can’t smell it or are not immediately affected in the short term, that does not mean that a chemical contaminant will not affect you or your family.

In this case, formaldehyde is the dominant pollutant. But almost anything at all can travel through the pipelines formed by our municipal sewers. Common pollutants include gasoline, waste oil, insecticides, herbicides (primarily in agricultural or golf course settings) and things like arsenic (a common golf course contaminant) and tritium (nuclear electric plants release this) can be found at any given time in urban environments.
 

 If you suspect that a nearby industrial polluter is affecting your home environment, one handy place to look is www.homefacts.com.  This site will provide you with the type and amounts of pollutants released into the air, water & ground by various registered industrial concerns.  This information is available via the Freedom of Information Act through various government lists.  However, doing that type of research is painfully tiresome & time consuming.  And really, why should you bother?  This website has already done it for you.  Some of the information is a little old, but it IS relevant, as some of the quantities of pollutants are staggering!  Check it out.

  As usual, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact the author through this website.  Thanks for reading!  Environfixer

Mold basically digests the substances that it grows upon, and gradually destroys that substrate.   So you can see why it would be of paramount importance that mold growth in the home be controlled.  It could damage your structural beams, joists & flooring.   Some common mold food sources include wood, drywall, cellulose tiles, & the debris in glass pores, which can be instrumental in ruining the lenses in your camera.  Mold can damage wood trim, framing, windows, paintings, decks, porches, cabinets, paneling & many other cellulose & organic based items.

Mold growth on drywall in an old church wall

As a result, mold must be controlled, since it cannot be totally eliminated. This is where understanding mold & mold management becomes important. Mold growth can be controlled by managing one or more of the items in the “Mold Growth Triangle”.

1. Moisture
2. Temperature
3. Food Source

Most common indoor molds require a certain amount of moisture to grow.   A general rule of thumb is to keep relative humidity below 56%.  Many of the more toxic molds, such as Stachybotrys require significant amounts of water.   By identifying & eliminating the source of moisture, a lot of mold growth can be controlled.   Not doing so after remediation risks recurring infestation.  Moisture control is probably the most important factor in mold management.

Uncontrolled roof leak allows water to infiltrate to the floor below.

Various molds do best in certain temperature ranges.  Most common indoor molds thrive at common indoor temperatures, between about 35 & 100 degrees Fahrenheit. ®   By controlling temperature, one can minimize or eliminate the growth of certain undesirable mold strains.  This is especially important in attics.   A powered attic exhaust fan, equipped with both a thermostat & a humidistat, can help reduce the chance for mold growth in this historically problematic area.

As stated earlier, mold can digest a wide range of organic substrates.   Mold food includes meat, dairy products, drywall paper, dirt on your windows, skins cells (think “dust bunnies”), wall paper, soap scum, etc.   Lately, there are a number of products specifically aimed at reducing food sources for mold growth.   These include paperless drywall, mold “blockers” & fungal inhibitors.  Wherever you can eliminate or minimize a food source for mold, you can also reduce the opportunity for its growth.

Utilizing any of these tips will help you to control mold growth in your home.   We recommend an inspection of your home twice a year, inside & outside, to insure that there is no water infiltration from gutters, wall cracks, or non-functioning sump pumps.  We also highly recommend that you keep a functioning dehumidifier in your basement set at 56% relative humidity.

If you have any questions or comments, please e-mail us or leave a comment below.   Thank you for your time!

Mold is a fungal organism that feeds on organic matter such as plants, animals & their by-products. Individual mold cells are microscopic, but a mold colony, composed of interwoven multicellular filaments, may often be visible to the naked eye.

As environmental consultants, home & business owners, we primarily concern ourselves with indoor mold growth, as that is what affects our health, home & financial interests. However, under certain circumstances, exterior mold abatement may be prudent, or simply required.

Technically, there is no difference between mold & mildew. But the term “mildew” is often used to describe mold growing on, in & around bathtubs, sinks, showers & shower curtains, as well as walls, vent & ceiling fans.

"Mildew" growing on a bathroom wall.

Where is Mold Found?
Mold spores are found everywhere, including Antarctica. Fungi grow in a wide array of conditions, including extreme heat (thermophiles) & cold (cryophiles). It is a naturally occurring organism that you neither avoid nor completely eliminate. More importantly, we could not do without it. Consider the accumulation of plant debris & animal carcasses without mold’s degestive processes!

What Good is Mold?
Mold feeds on organic material & converts it into chemical nutrients necessary to our environment. We use mold in the food industry (cheese, aging & processing meat) & in medicine. Trichoderma produces enzymes used for root proliferation & in the stone washed denim manufacturing process. Mold has also recently been used to mark ski slopes.

While we here at ENVIROFIXER.com always recommend that a licensed & experienced professional firm be retained to deal with ANY asbestos issues, we are well aware that there are those of you who will insist on doing the job yourself. What follows, therefore, are a few guidelines for removing abestos pipe insulation. Please note, this summary was prepared to deal with “air cell”, not “Mag Block”, which contains significant amounts of asbestos fibers embedded in plaster & requires a somewhat different technique. Air cell is that corregated cardboard looking stuff that is usually covered in cloth or canvas and held in place by metal tape bent around a retaining loop.
All that being said, first let us deal with what you will need to begin to remove the air cell pipe insulation in your home.
THINGS YOU WILL NEED
1. A Hudson sprayer &/or a good spray bottle to apply water to the insulation.
2. A sharp utility knife.
3. One or more rolls of 6 mil plastic.
4. Several disposable plastic painters tarps (think 3 roll packs of thin plastic sheets). These will be used to cover items that you cannot or are not willing to move. Even though things like washers/dryers may
be covered during abatement work, they should be wiped down thoroughly (3 times) once the plastic is
removed.
5. Several rolls of duct tape, including wide, 2″ tape that will be usedfor creating your seals.
6. A fan that will fit in a basement window. (You should throw this out when finished).
Note: A better solution is a rented HEPA air cleaner rated for this type of work.
7. A wire cutter. This will be necessary to removed the wire that is often found on elbow & joints associatedwith this type of insulation. The wire was used as a matrix to which the asbestos imbued plaster could adhere.
8. A scraper suitable for use on joints & fittings where the ACM compound has baked onto the pipes.
9. A box of disposable shop towels.
10. A set of strong, spring loaded clamps.
11. A bucket & sponge.
12. A bucket & mop with a mop squeezer.
13. A broom & sweeping compound.
14. A box of contractor’s drum liners (3 mil thick, minimum, 6 mil is preferred).
15. A mask rated for asbestos dust (they’re about $30-$35. DON’T cheap out on this item!!)
16. Make sure you have adequate lighting.
17. Steel wool or plastic scouring pads.
18. Several cans of spray adhesive.
19. Glove bags. These are a specialty item available only through certain distributors. You can get them through us, or from one or more of the supplier links found on our website. NOTE: The suppliers sell them in bulk ONLY!

20. Tyvek protective suits. Again, a specialty item. Painter’s protective suits are a poor substitute.

PROCEDURES
1. Move all you can out of the work area. Cover everything else in the work area w/the painter’s plastic. Note: You will need to secure these w/duct tape or the lighter plastic tarps will blow around. Not necessary to use the wide tape for this.
2. Create negative pressure by sealing a fan (to blow out) in a basement window. Remove the screen so it does not trap fibers. Set the fan in the window & tape it in. Tape 6 mil plastic onto the fan & secure it around the window frame w/duct tape. Turn the fan on AFTER you have created your seals.
3. Place your equipment inside the work area.
4. Seal off the smallest work area that you can comfortably work in. You will have to clean it later. Create the room seals by taping 6 mil plastic to the ceiling & the floor along each wall using the wide 2″ duct tape. Tape either end to the walls or other sheets of plastic. You are basically building a room of heavy plastic sheeting. Make sure you have a good seal. Slice an entry slit from near the ceiling to near the floor. Tape a second 6 mil sheet of plastic wide enough to span the slit about 3 feet on each side. Tape it to the ceiling & floor on the outside of the main seal. This will create a doorway for entry/exit. Tape another sheet on the inside to create a triple seal. If your negative pressure is working correctly, the fan should draw the seal slightly inward.
5. Place 6 mil plastic above & beneath the pipe insulation & tape it to the ceiling & floor on all four sides. Lightly spray w/glue.
6. Don your mask, gloves & tyvek suit. Note: You may wish to wear shorts & a light, sleeveless undershirt beneath the suit. They get pretty hot. Make sure you have a good seal on the mask!
7. Soak the pipe insulation thoroughly w/the Hudson sprayer.
8. Load the knife, wire cutter, scraper, water bottle, some shop towels & a scouring pad into the pouch inside a glove bag.
9. Carefully hang the glove bag over the insulation by overlapping the ends & secure it w/2-3 clamps. Note: You will be placing wet pipe insulation into the bag, so it will be pretty heavy. You don’t want it to slip.
10. If the bag is hung properly, you should be able to put your hands into the gloves inside the bag. Do so. Carefully unclamp the metal tape holding the insulation in place. There will be 1-4 per section. Let them fall into the bag.
11. Feel around the insulation section to find the horizontal joint. They are put on like clamshells & wrapped w/cloth. Take the knife & cut the cloth horizontally along the joint. Each standard section is 2-3 feet long. It may take more than a single cut. Don’t force it, as you may cut yourself. Rather, slice along the joint a couple of times to open it. Hold the joint w/your other hand so it doesn’t drop into the bag violently. That may cause the bag to slip off. Gently place the section in the bag. They may not always stay together.
12. Spray the pipe w/the water bottle & use a couple of shop towels to clean away any remaining residue/fibers.
13. Slide the glove bag over the next section & repeat the process. When you have removed sufficient insulation to strain the clamps, yourself or the bag, carefully remove the bag. Remove your tools & place them in the pouch of the next glove bag. Insert one flap into the full bag, placing the other flap over it. Roll tightly so that everything is sealed inside. Use duct tape to tape it shut (wrap around the bag several times.) Place bag inside contractor’s bag. Tape shut. Place inside another contractor bag. Tape shut. Set aside so you don’t stumble on it.
14. When you get to a fitting or a pipe joint, you will encounter asbestos reinforced plaster. Soak it well & try to cut away as much as possible w/the knife. You will probably encounter wire beneath it, which was used to create an uneven surface for the plaster to adhere to. Use the wire cutter to remove it, letting it fall into the bag. Use the scraper to clean as much of the plaster away from the fitting as possible. Then use steel wool or a scouring pad to clean it the rest of the way. Water may help loosen the plaster during this process. Use shop towels & water to clean the fitting as before.
15. When all of the insulation is removed & all glove bags are taped & double bagged, you can start the clean up. First, scrub all of the pipes with water & shop towels, making sure they are clean. Then, use the spray glue on the pipes to secure any errant fibers. Shake often, as it tends to clog the nozzle. Be sure you have your hood on! If you get glue into your hair, it takes about 2 weeks to get it all out. Lightly spray the inside of your plastic entry & fan seals, & the painter’s tarps to trap any errant fibers. Collect the plastic from the floor & place into contractor’s bag. Tape shut. Place inside another contractor’s bag & tape shut.
16. Wipe any other exposed (not covered) surfaces in the work area w/water & shop towels. Put into bag & tape shut. Place a layer of sweeping compound on the floor & wet slightly w/sprayer. Sweep floor, placing used compound into bag. Tape shut. Repeat process. When finished, put broom into bag for disposal & tape shut. Mop floor thoroughly three (3) times! Do NOT skip this step. You & your family live here & will have to breath the air.
17. Carefully remove the painter’s tarps & entry seal. Put into bag & tape shut. Finally, shut off the fan & carefully remove the plastic & tape from around it. Place into bag & tape shut. Wipe all surfaces thoroughly w/water & clean paper towels.

We recommend that you just throw the fan away w/the other stuff. (put it in a bag & tape shut.) If you want to save it, it must be cleaned thoroughly, or you risk spreading asbestos fibers next time you use it!! To clean, place into bag & tape shut. When you have finished cleaning the rest of the work area, take it outside & disassemble the fan. Wear your mask! Use a hose or power sprayer to thoroughly clean the cage sections. Thoroughly wipe the blades – both sides – & the interior & exterior of the housing & cord w/a damp shop towel. Let dry. Repeat twice. Reassemble. Consider throwing fan away. Throw fan away. (Joke) Seriously, you’re better off throwing it out.

18. Remove your suit & gloves, put into bag & tape shut. Remove your mask, put into 1 gallon freezer bag & seal shut for later cleaning.
19. Wipe all surfaces in the work area again. Re-mop floor w/clean water. Change water. Repeat. Do NOT skip the triple cleaning, as you have family that lives there, as well as yourself.
20. Take out the trash, using an outside stairway from the basement, if possible. Place plastic sheeting on the floor when hauling out garbage. Use the shortest route to the outside, skipping as much carpeted area as possible.
When finished, collect plastic & bag for disposal. Mop the floors & stairs twice, changing the water in between.
21. All of the trash can be disposed of in your weekly pick up EXCEPT the double bagged glove bags containing the insulation. Set that aside in an area where it won’t be damaged & either call a landfill licensed to accept this type of waste, or call a consultant who is willing to dispose of it properly for you.
22. To clean your mask. Remove the filters & throw away. Wash the rest of the mask in soap & water, rinse in clean water & let dry. Replace filters & you’re ready to go.
23. If you have any questions, either call or go on line to find the answers. You don’t want to put your family’s respiratory health at risk.
WE STILL RECOMMEND USING PROFESSIONALS!

While we always recommend that you employ a qualified professional, some smaller lead (Pb) abatement projects can be performed by the homeowner. Below are some steps that outline the work that was performed to mitigate lead (Pb) paint around windows & doors in a rental home.

The following Mitigation Procedures will be implemented at each location identified by testing as being postive for lead (Pb) paint. The work will be completed in order to achieve a satisfactory Phase 1 lead abatement.

LEAD HAZARD MITIGATION

1. All areas to be mitigated will be enclosed from floor to ceiling with 6 mil plastic and duct tape.
2. The ceiling & floors will also be isolated by plastic sheeting.
3. Everyone working in the mitigation areas will be outfitted with the proper masks, gloves & protective suits.
4. Each window will be wet wiped according to the W-1 (Interim Controls) directives provided.
5. All loose paint chips & debris will be removed & placed in 6 mil plastic bags for later disposal.
6. Window stays will be carefully removed & sealed in 6 mil plastic bags for later disposal.
7. Windows will be wet sanded (W-1 Interim Control) to provide for smooth opening & encapsulant application.
(Friction areas will be sanded down to bare surfaces to remove all lead based paint)
8. The plastic work space enclosures will be HEPA vacuumed & wet wiped prior to bagging for disposal.
9. Fiberlock™ 5801 Lead Barrier Compound paint will be applied in 3 successive coats to each window.
(W-2 Encapsulation – Fiberlock™ Spec sheet attached)
10. New window stays, painted as above, will be installed at each mitigated window.
11. Doors will be treated in a similar manner, except for replacement of stays. (D-1 & D-2 Procedures)
(Friction areas will be sanded down to bare surfaces to remove all lead based paint)
12. The bathroom window, and all other unsalvageable windows & doors, will be carefully removed, bagged for for disposal & replaced in their entirety.

MODERATE POTENTIAL LEAD RISK MITIGATION

1. All interior areas to be mitigated will be enclosed from floor to ceiling with 6 mil plastic and duct tape.
2. The floors will also be isolated with 6 mil plastic sheeting.
3. Everyone working in the mitigation areas will be outfitted with the proper masks, gloves & protective suits.
4. Each wall/ceiling/trim will be wet wiped according to the PL-1 (Interim Controls) directives provided.
5. All loose paint chips & debris will be removed & placed in 6 mil plastic bags for later disposal.
6. Walls/ceilings/trim will be wet sanded (PL-1 Interim Control) to provide for encapsulant application.
7. The plastic work enclosures will be HEPA vacuumed & wet wiped prior to bagging for disposal.
8. Fiberlock™ 5801 Lead Barrier Compound paint will be applied in 3 successive coats to each wall/ceiling/trim.
(PL-2 Encapsulation)
9. Exterior siding & trim will be wet wiped, sanded & painted with encapsulant as weather allows.

In addition to the procedures outlined above, each window, door, wall and ceiling will be caulked in the appropriate areas, as necessary. Adult residents will place barriers in appropriate areas to prevent children’s access to the windows and other suspect areas.

FYI, grant money is often available from municipalities, county and state governments to replace doors and windows. Federal money is also available, but takes much longer to get.

SHOULD YOU REMOVE YOUR OWN FUEL TANK?
This question has been asked by many a homeowner over the years as unused, outdated or newly discovered nuisance tanks are encountered on newly purchased or re-developed properties. The answer depends on a number of factors. Foremost among these are:
1. What are the contents of my tank?
2. What is my skill level for this type of project?
3. Do I have access to the proper equipment?
4. How good am I at following instructions?

All of these considerations are important in their own right, but the answers are even more important. Let’s deal with each of these questions in the order in which they have been presented.

1. What are the contents of my tank? If the contents are gasoline, paint solvents or other highly flammable/explosive materials, the answer is most definitely “NO”! These materials should be handled by trained and experienced professionals, or you risk the loss of your home, barn, garage, limbs, eyesight or even possibly your life or the life of someone you care about.

If, however, your tank contains heating oil, diesel fuel or waste (used) motor oil, you can probably move on to the next question with a fair amount of certainty that the contents are not the major concern. Heating oil, diesel fuel and waste oil all have a lower flash point than gasoline and solvents, and are thus less explosive. Generally, a handy guy or gal can safely and easily handle these materials with a little bit of professional instruction.

2. What is my skill level for this type of project? Again, the answer to this question is dependent on the type of project involved. For a basement heating oil tank, you may only have to operate hand power tools to safely complete the project. On the other hand, a buried (underground) tank may require backhoe or block and tackle operation in addition to power tools. The handling of dry ice or other vapor suppression techniques will also come into play. You should also consider health factors such as your ability to function when equipped with an organic vapor filter mask and protective body suit.

Ask yourself, and for goodness sake be honest, if you are qualified to operate hand tools, a backhoe or other lifting device, handle dry ice, function in protective clothing and a mask. If the answer is “yes”, then you can safely proceed to the next question. If the answer is “no”, then you may also want to consider if you might be qualified to assist someone you know who might have the skills necessary to safely complete your project. It is usually best to have at least two people present on a tank project, for safety and to confer on unexpected conditions that may be encountered. Multiple workers also help reduce fatigue, a major cause of injury.

3. Do I have access to the proper equipment? This question is of utmost importance. Trying to safely complete a tank project with the wrong equipment can result in serious injury to yourself, your help or in expensive damage to your home, vehicles or other property.

For instance, when a 30 amp sawzall is required, a 10 amp jigsaw will NOT suffice. Using a small lawn tractor to try to lift out a 1,000 gallon fuel tank can result in injury, a broken lawn tractor or at the very least, spilt fuel or tank bottoms. Steel 55-gallons drums will be used. A grounded, spark suppressive pump will be necessary. Be sure you own or can rent or borrow those items that you will need to do the job properly and safely.

4. How good am I at following instructions? Following instruction for ANY project is key if you are performing it for the first time. If you believe that you can figure it out for yourself, be aware of the risks involved. Even if you manage to remove the tank without injury or damage, a spill may cost you money in the long run from lowered property values, litigation by neighbors, associations or municipalities, or even by contaminating your on site water well. So, be sure to follow instructions to the letter to minimize chances for injury or loss. The instructions provided have been furnished by trained and experienced professionals who have removed many different sizes of tanks, of varying contents, in diverse conditions. Skipping steps or taking short cuts is definitely NOT recommended when dealing with ANY environmental situation.

OK, so you have established that the tank contents are not highly flammable, that you are qualified to perform the tasks at hand, that you have or can obtain the proper equipment and you are resigned to follow tank removal instructions to the letter. So, where can you obtain those instructions? Click on the link below for our on line manual detailing the steps necessary to safely and properly remove your residential fuel storage tank. The cost is only $19.95. The cost of a professional tank removal generally starts at $ 1,500 and goes up from there.

Our instruction manual contains step by step instructions for tank projects starting with grounding the tank, to the removal of fuel, inerting the tank, opening the tank for cleaning and ends with the proper disposal of fuel and tank bottoms. Instructional diagrams and pictures are included. And remember, if you have any questions at any time, you can contact envirofixer.com for the answer!

(Please Note: The authors ALWAYS recommend that professionals qualified in a particular field be used to complete dangerous or risky projects, especially those involving materials or conditions that may be hazardous to human health or property. The article above is written with the sole purpose of providing guidance for the particular questions presented. No guarantees, warranties or sureties are provided, and readers choose to proceed with their projects at their own risk. Be sure to comply with all state, local and federal laws.)